STEP-BY-STEPS
To establish the fringe, hold the hair in natural fall with the large teeth of the comb. The comb should be horizontal to the floor. Point cut with the shear at a vertical angle to achieve the desired fringe length.
PRO TIP
When combing into natural
fall, start underneath the section with the
wide teeth of the comb. Use your shear to
tap the hair into position. For further
definition do the same steps with the fine
teeth of the comb.
To soften the edges of the fringe, take vertical sections and overdirect away from the face. Point cut into the corner of the section.
Establish a second horizontal section just above the jaw line. Use your comb to visually determine where to place the line before cutting it. Establish the length on the sides and back by elevating slightly and point cutting to the desired length.
Repeat step three on the other side. Point cut on an angle for a chunkier effect and vertically for a softer edge.
To add airiness and the look of layers, take vertical sections, hold the hair out from the headform, remove weight from the mids & ends with a 'flicking' motion of the razor.
PRO TIP
Remove weight in the mids & ends
vertically, if you cut horizontally you'll create
weight verses softening the lines.
Tool: Sam Villa Signature Series Razor
"The razor is a very emotional tool, you must be very
light with it. Additionally, when dry cutting remember, it’s all visual and feel"
-
Sam Villa
For freeform movement and texture, style with Redken Wax Blast 10 and spray while blow drying at the same time.
TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK
TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK
Detailed Process
FRINGE Steps
1. Starting off a center part create a section from the apex of the head to the front hairline.
2. Take a small vertical section from the apex to the front hairline about 1" in width.
Blouse the hair to help get a sectioning that is more organic.
When cutting fringes, if you cut dry you'll see the natural fall of the fringe better. When cutting wet to dry the fringe may shrink up more.
3. Hold the hair at natural fall. With the fine teeth of the comb place the comb horizontal to the floor & point cut with the shear at a vertical angle to begin establishing your fringe.
When combing to natural fall, start with the wide teeth of the comb & push the comb in horizontally & then comb straight down. Then do this again with the fine teeth of the comb.
If you point cut on an angle you'll get a chunkier effect. If you point cut vertically you'll get a softer edge.
A shallow point cut gives you a soft edge and doesn't remove too much density.
Center yourself always standing right in front of the section you're cutting.
4. Continue taking vertical sections & cutting at natural fall following the round of the head & connecting the fringe to the layers on the top of the head.
If you take a horizontal section & establish your fringe cutting from (1) one straight angle you won't be cutting with the round of the head in mind. If you take smaller sections and cut following the round of the head, the fringe will lay at a more natural fall that that won’t be shrinking up.
Stabilize the stationary blade with one of your fingers from your non-cutting hand when you’re free hand cutting the fringe. This helps to cut a more precise line giving your hand more balance.
Tap the hair when getting length into position for a natural fall to get a more precision line.
When cutting fringes don't get greedy and take too wide of a section get a slimmer section for a more precise-looking fringe.
Pick up the next section with the blades of the shear & insert your comb flat against the face then pull it up so the teeth of the comb are facing you before you cut.
5. Once you have your fringe cut, take the Sam Villa Sleekr and a Thermal Round Brush to bevel the fringe under. The heat from the sleekr and the Thermal Round will help to get a soft bevel in the fringe.
6. Take a slim vertical section & over direct straight back to cut the corner of the fringe off & to slightly layer. Create a shallow point cut with your finger angle flat at the horizontal 90.
This layering technique is great to knock off the top corners of fringes.
CUT
1. Start your sectioning from the apex of the head to the back of the ears to begin your face frame design line with the Sam Villa Texturizing Razor & begin channel cutting the hair. Hold the razor parallel to your section & cut from the mids to the ends to release weight & length.
Holding the razor like a pencil give you more of an ergonomic positioning and a lighter touch. You can get a softer face frame when holdi if you cut dry yng it like this.
Use a contrasting comb & cape to the client's hair color level to help you better establish strong design lines.
For more slip in the hair when dry cutting with a razor use One United from Redken.
2. Continue cutting the face frame & releasing horizontal 1" sections & lightly skim the hair vertically with the razor until all hair is cut in your section.
For more of a textured edge that has less density create your design lines with a razor, cutting vertically into the hair & channel cut.
If you want more tension in your cut comb with the fine teeth of the hair, if you want a looser lived in cut, cut with the wide teeth of the comb.
3. Switch to a 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear to add airiness to the perimeter edge. Take a vertical section about 1" in width. Elevate & overdirect your section to the center apex of the head up to 180 degrees or the vertical 90 & point cut to blend your layers into the length.
4. Continue taking pivoting sections around the head, elevating & overdirecting to the apex of the head & layer the hair. Use condense cutting to quickly create your design lines.
The length of your stroke will vary depending on the density of the hair. A longer stroke will give you more a textured line that also has weight removal, where a shorter stroke ensure more density in your design lines.
5. To add airiness to your cut once all layers are established take vertical sections & hold the hair out to remove weight from the mids & ends, cut with a 'flicking' motion when using the razor to just skim your section & remove density.
If you want to remove weight with a razor & give a soft edge cut into your section flick your wrist in a circular motion.
On thicker hair types when cutting with a razor, switch your blade multiple times when cutting to ensure a soft edge & that you're not tearing the hair.
Remove weight with the razor with channel cutting into the mids & ends vertically, if you channel cut horizontally you'll create lines vs. softening the lines.
"The razor is a very emotional tool, you must be very light with it"- Sam Villa
"Drycutting is all visual and feel".
- Sam Villa
When finishing you can add Wax Blast 10 from Redken to encourage shine, texture into your cut.