Why Won't My Curls Hold?
This is such a common question asked by both stylists at the salon and clients styling their own hair at home. To get to the bottom of it, we've identified the four main reasons and solutions to guarantee you and your guests longer-lasting curls!
- Products: The first reason why your curls aren't holding comes from using the wrong type of product or using products improperly. There are certain products made specifically to go on damp or dry hair. If you choose a product that is not made specifically for dry hair and you spray it too close to the hair, it can result in a "wet spot" which causes damage when the iron touches it. Additionally, if the product is tacky or sticky it can cause the plates of the iron to get stuck and singe the hair.
- Prep Work: The second reason is knowing how to create a foundational blow dry, prior to curling and the correct tools to use for each. Most times when creating a smooth and sleek blow dry, you are used to blow drying the hair with boar bristle or finishing brushes that create tension for a sleek, smooth style. However when the hair isn't holding its curl it's important to use techniques and brushes that do not create tension but rather create texture and movement.
- Add Texture: Very fine to medium-hair types, or extremely soft hair will need more prepping prior to curl styling. One of the best ways to ensure longer-lasting curls is by using products and tools that reinforce texture. The perfect tool for this is a texturizing iron that can change fine, soft hair to texturized and volumized within minutes!
- Cool Down: Allow enough time for your curls to cool down or they will lose their form and fall out quickly. If you run your fingers or brush through curls too soon without giving them the proper time to set, your curls won't last.
Read on to dive into the details of why your curls aren't holding and gain tips and tricks to uncover the solutions and become an expert in styling!
Which Hair Styling Products Should I Use?
Product is not an option, it's a necessity! Setting your hair with the right product builds the proper foundation to reinforce the best curls.
Extra Tips for Fine Hair:
If your client has very fine to fine hair, you'll want to build a foundation from the start by using a volumizing or thickening shampoo. In some cases you may want to skip conditioner or use a very small amount on the ends.
This is especially important when styling fine or soft hair which has a tendency to lose its curl fast. When choosing a product for fine or soft hair, be sure to steer away from using any type of oil, wax or silicone-based styler. These types of products will add weight to the hair and will cause the hair to get oily. Instead, choose mousses and lightweight lotions to avoid a heavy-product feel.
A go-to mousse for extra fine hair is Redken Root Lifter Volumizing Spray.
Hot tip: Spray Root Lifter Volumizing Spray on very fine hair, wetting the hair completely with the product, and re-blow dry for a voluminous, textured result.
Always use a thermal heat protecting product such as Redken Thermal Spray Low Hold, a lightweight spray that adds shine and provides hold. You can also use a light hold hairspray to finish your style.
When styling hair types that are medium to coarse, you may choose to ask your client to come in with "second-day" hair. These hair types will benefit with some grit, which is usually better on the second day.
Dry shampoos and creams with anti-frizz properties will be the best product choices for medium to thick, coarse hair. Apply Redken Dry Shampoo from roots to ends to absorb any unwanted oils and to promote airiness, then apply anti-frizz creams or serums to the mid-shaft and ends to smooth out flyaways.
Use Redken Thermal Spray Low Hold prior to using your heat tool for heat protection, shine and hold then finish with a light hairspray for additional hold.
For hair that needs more hold, Redken Thermal Spray High Hold is a heat protectant spray for molded curls and prevents heavy hair from falling out.
How Do We Build a Foundation for Long Lasting Curls?
Blow drying the hair and using the correct brush will create a foundation and is a key element to establishing long-lasting styles. Just like building a house, the framework is built first to provide structure for building. Blow drying is your framework for curls.
The Sam Villa Signature Series 9 Row Finishing Brush will enforce tension stretching the hair fiber which results in a smooth and polished look.
The Sam Villa Signature Series Paddle Brush results in a more textured result which is a better finish for the bounce and movement needed for curls.
Notice the differences in finish using both brushes. The curl using a paddle brush will provide a more lived-in look needed for curls especially for fine hair.
If the hair you're styling is very fine, sometimes rough drying with your hands is the best option. Additionally, the condition of the hair will determine which blow dry technique to use. The healthier and silkier the hair, the more you need to build a foundation for your curls to stay! Read on for a solution on how to get the best foundation for fine hair.
Be sure to talk to your client about the way they're prepping their hair prior to styling.
How Can We Reinforce Curls?
Sam Villa Signature Series Textur Iron creates small ridges that help to expand the shape of the cuticle and changes the texture of soft, silky hair to enforce fullness and body. You don’t need to texturize the entire head, instead pick up random sections and texturize throughout from base to ends to build texture in the hair. Once texturized, curl the hair immediately.
Here’s a quick step by step using Sam Villa Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Iron & Wand:
- Hold the wand at a 45 degree angle.
- Start 1-inch away from the root, wrap a 1-inch section of hair around the wand all the way to the ends and hold.
- Tap gently on the hair that’s wrapped around the iron to be sure the heat is penetrating through the section.
- Gently let go of the hair and hold the curl in your palm for cool down.
- For extra hold, spray lightly with hairspray before allowing the hair to drop.
This is a must for hair that is fine or soft, or that needs additional reinforcement for longer-lasting curls.
You have the ability to texturize the hair as little or as much as you want using the Textur Iron. This will depend on the texture needed for your desired end result. Using this tool will ensure long-lasting curls the whole night through!
What Is the Benefit of Allowing Curls to Cool Down?
Did you know it can take up to 30 minutes for your hair to cool down and fully form its bonds? Allowing your curls to cool down is one of the most important ways to ensure your curls hold. The longer you allow the hair to cool down, the longer your curls will stay!
If a tousled style or glam wave is your desired look, allow the hair to completely cool down before brushing or raking your fingers through it. If we know that it takes 30 minutes for curls to fully cool down, you risk your curls not holding it they're taken down sooner than that.
A great tip: Next time you have a client coming for curls, add extra-time for pinning, known as a "set". Gather pin curl clips and clip the curls gently to the scalp immediately after curling it, to reinforce its shape. Once the entire head is pinned, mist with high hold hairspray. This is a great tip to share with your clients as well!
The Takeaways
Now that you've learned these four solutions for getting curls to hold, creating longer-lasting, voluminous curls should be much easier. The next time your guest is scheduled for curls, you can be confident they'll last all night. PLUS, share these tips with your guests for added value!
