Why Won't My Curls Hold?
4 Common Reasons & Expert Fixes
If you’ve ever struggled to keep your curls intact, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common concerns among both salon stylists and those styling their hair at home. To help, we’ve identified the top four reasons curls fall flat—plus expert solutions to ensure long-lasting curls every time.
-
Using The Wrong Products: The products you use—and how you use them—can make or break curls. Some formulas are designed for damp hair, while others work best on dry hair. Using the wrong one or applying products improperly can lead to issues like "wet spots," which can cause damage when exposed to heat. Sticky or tacky products can also make your curling iron snag and burn the hair. Choosing the right product for your hair type and applying it correctly is key to curl longevity.
-
Skipping Proper Prep Work: A good foundational blow-dry is everything! If you usually blow-dry hair sleek and smooth with a boar bristle or finishing brush, that might be the reason your curls aren’t holding. Instead, opt for brushes and techniques that build texture and movement rather than tension, ensuring your hair is prepped for long-lasting curls.
-
Lack of Texture: Fine to medium hair—or ultra-soft strands—often need extra help holding a curl. One of the best ways to add grip and volume is by incorporating texture-boosting products or using a texturizing iron. In just minutes, this tool can transform silky, slippery hair into a more voluminous, textured base that holds curls beautifully.
- Not Letting Curls Cool: Cooling is crucial! If you touch, brush, or style curls before they’ve fully set, they’ll fall flat fast. Let each curl cool completely before running your fingers through them. This simple step locks in the shape and ensures your style lasts longer.
Want to master the art of long-lasting curls? Keep reading for pro tips and styling secrets to enhance all hair types.
The Best Hair Styling Products for Long-Lasting Curls
Using the right styling products isn’t optional—it’s essential! A strong foundation is key to creating curls that stay voluminous, defined, and long-lasting. Here’s how to choose the best products for different hair types, plus expert tips for styling success.
Extra Tips for Fine Hair:
If your client has fine or very fine hair, start with a volumizing or thickening shampoo to build body from the beginning. In some cases, skipping conditioner—or using just a small amount on the ends—can help prevent excess weight that makes curls fall flat.
Pro Tip: Avoid oils, waxes, and silicone-based stylers, as these can weigh down fine hair and make it oily faster. Instead, opt for lightweight mousses or lotions to maintain volume without heaviness.
One of the best options for fine hair is Redken Root Lifter Volumizing Spray. For maximum lift, fully saturate the hair with the spray and re-blow dry for a textured, voluminous finish.
To protect against heat damage and add hold, always use a thermal protectant like Redken Thermal Spray Low Hold. Finish your style with a light-hold hairspray to lock in your curls without stiffness.
Best Products for Medium to Coarse Hair
For medium to coarse hair, prepping with the right products is just as important. In fact, curls often hold better on second-day hair, as a little natural grit helps improve texture and hold.
Key Product Picks:
Dry Shampoo – Absorbs excess oils and adds airy volume. Try Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo, applied from roots to ends for a fresh, lifted feel.
Anti-Frizz Creams & Serums – Smooth flyaways and tame frizz by applying a lightweight smoothing cream to the mid-lengths and ends.
Before using any hot tools, apply Redken Thermal Spray Low Hold to protect hair from heat while adding shine and hold. For extra staying power, use Redken Thermal Spray High Hold—perfect for molded curls and preventing heavy hair from falling flat.
How to Create the Perfect Foundation for Long-Lasting Curls
A strong foundation is the secret to curls that last! Just like building a house, you need the right framework to support your style. In this case, blow drying and using the right brush are essential steps to setting your curls up for success.
One of the best tools for the job is the Sam Villa Signature Series 9 Row Finishing Brush. This brush creates the ideal amount of tension, stretching the hair fibers for a smooth, polished finish that helps curls hold their shape longer.
The Sam Villa Signature Series Paddle Brush results in a more textured result which is a better finish for the bounce and movement needed for curls.
The brush you use can make all the difference in your final look! A paddle brush creates a more lived-in, relaxed curl, which is especially beneficial for fine hair.
For very fine hair, sometimes the best approach is rough drying with your hands to add natural texture and grip. Keep in mind that the overall condition of the hair plays a big role—the healthier and silkier the hair, the more foundation it needs to hold a curl.
Pro Tip: Talk to your clients about their hair prep routine before styling. The right blow-dry technique can set the stage for curls that last all day!
How to Reinforce Curls for Long-Lasting Hold
Struggling to get curls to stay? Adding texture is the key! The Sam Villa Signature Series Textur Iron creates small ridges in the hair, expanding the cuticle and transforming soft, silky strands into a fuller, more voluminous texture. You don’t need to texturize the entire head—just pick random sections and texturize from base to ends for added grip. Once you’ve built texture, curl the hair immediately for best results.
Here’s a quick step by step using Sam Villa Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Iron & Wand:
- Hold the wand at a 45 degree angle.
- Start 1-inch away from the root, wrap a 1-inch section of hair around the wand all the way to the ends and hold.
- Tap gently on the hair that’s wrapped around the iron to be sure the heat is penetrating through the section.
- Gently let go of the hair and hold the curl in your palm for cool down.
- For extra hold, spray lightly with hairspray before allowing the hair to drop.
This is a must for hair that is fine or soft, or that needs additional reinforcement for longer-lasting curls.
You have the ability to texturize the hair as little or as much as you want using the Textur Iron. This will depend on the texture needed for your desired end result. Using this tool will ensure long-lasting curls the whole night through!
Why Letting Curls Cool Down is Essential
Did you know that it can take up to 30 minutes for curls to fully cool and set their shape? The longer you allow your curls to cool, the better they’ll hold.
Pro Tip: If you're going for tousled waves or a glam wave look, wait until curls are completely cool before brushing or running your fingers through them. If curls are taken down too soon, they’ll lose their shape quickly.
For even longer-lasting curls, try the pinning technique:
- Pin curls to the scalp immediately after curling.
- Mist with high-hold hairspray for extra reinforcement.
- Let the hair set before taking down for curls that last all night!
The Takeaways
Now that you've learned these four key techniques for getting curls to hold, creating longer-lasting, voluminous curls should be much easier. The next time your guest is scheduled for curls, you can be confident they'll last all night. Plus, sharing these expert tips with your clients adds extra value to their experience!
