Beyond the Bob

Graduated Bob

Here’s a great technique for adding graduation to a blunt bob. Working with the head shape helps you maintain weight while building graduation into the haircut.

Step #1: Start with clean, damp hair. Prep the hair with Redken One United and create a diagonal forward section in the nape area. Place your comb at the base of the head and start the section where the comb leaves the head. From this point, create a diagonal line down to the ear on each side. Secure the rest of the hair with Dry Sectioning Clip.

Step #2: Divide the nape section in half down the center line. Separate a diagonal forward section and place your middle finger underneath. Comb through the section and bring your index finger on top.

Using the fine teeth, comb through the hair with the teeth facing down. Then comb through the hair with the teeth facing up and over-direct the hair to the center.

Identify the point where the top of the comb connects with the top of the section. Find the piece of hair underneath the section to use as a guide, slide your index and middle fingers down to the guide, and connect these two points with your Streamline Series 6.25” Shear. (Shorter blades work best for this cut.)

Step #3: Repeat Step #2, working through the rest of the nape area in diagonal forward subsections. Sam Villa recommends creating three diagonal forward sections on each side of the head. Once you complete these sections, there should be built-in graduation in the nape.

Step #4: Release the right section from the clip. Take a narrow vertical subsection from the back of the section. Over-direct this hair to the back. Using the graduated line in the nape area as a guide, cut this subsection to the length of the guide.

Step #5: Repeat Step #4 with the rest of the side section, working from back to front in narrow vertical subsections. Then follow the same process on the left side of the head.

Layered Bob

Try this technique to add movement and soft layers to a one-length bob!

Step #1: Start with dry hair. Separate the hair behind the ears; secure the hair in front of the ears with Dry Sectioning Clip.

Step #2: Take a vertical subsection and place your cutting comb vertically into the hair. Identify the point where the comb leaves the head and work with the hair above this point. This will form the layers. Sectioning the hair according to the head shape helps you maintain weight while layering the hair.

Step #3: Elevate the hair to a 45 degree angle. Place your cutting comb against the head and glide it up through the hair, keeping the comb parallel to the head shape. Cut this section with your 7” Dry Cutting Shear, using the piece of hair from underneath the section as your guide.

Step #4: Repeat Steps #2-3, working around the head in vertical subsections. Avoid over-directing the hair by keeping the comb parallel to the head shape and cutting the hair where it lives.

Step #5: Release the hair from the clip on the right side. Pick up a vertical subsection next to the ear and add it to the layered section behind it. Elevate this hair and over-direct it back to the ear, then cut the new section using the previously-cut section as a guide.

Step #6: Repeat Step #5, working from back to front in vertical subsections. Over-directing the hair back to the ear helps you preserve weight and density in the face-framing layers.

Step #7: Follow Steps #5 and #6 on the left side of the head.

Step #8: To cut the fringe, switch to a shorter shear such as the Streamline Series 6.25” Shear. Comb the hair forward over the face and create a center part. Starting on one side of the fringe, place the comb horizontally into the hair and identify where the comb leaves the head. This will determine your first cutting section.

Step #9: Pinch the section and place it into the comb, with the spine against the head and the teeth facing out. Bring the comb down to your desired fringe length. Use your shears to tap the hair into the teeth, then cut it just below the comb. This helps you to cut the fringe where it lives.

Step #10: Repeat Step #9 with the rest of the fringe, working in small vertical subsections and using the previously cut section as a guide. Smaller sections deliver greater precision and neater, cleaner lines. Check the fringe in the mirror and correct any uneven spots.

Disconnected Bob

Disconnected bobs are an excellent choice for guests with thick, curly or dense hair. Removing weight cuts down on blow-drying and styling time while preserving the iconic bob shape.

Step #1: Start with dry hair. Create a center parting down the midline. Standing behind your guest’s head, place your comb vertically along the parting and find the point where the comb leaves the head. Section off the hair above this point and secure it out of the way with Dry Sectioning Clips on each side.

Step #2: If you’re working with straight hair, bevel the nape section with the Pro Results 3-in-1 Blow Dry Hot Brush. Prep the hair with Redken One United.

Step #3: Pick up a piece of hair from the top of the nape section and find where the hair naturally bends. The hair should be cut to this length.

Step #4: Separate a vertical subsection of hair, elevate it vertically and place it close to the head shape. Cut this hair horizontally with your 7” Dry Cutting Shear, creating hidden short-to-long layers.

Step #5: Repeat Step #4, working through the nape area in vertical subsections.

Step #6: Release the rest of the hair from the clips and comb it over the nape area. The result is a lighter, less-bulky bob that maintains that classic one-length silhouette!

Creating Custom Solutions for Bob Haircuts

Every guest comes to us with different needs and concerns, so consultation is essential! Understanding how to work with the head shape lets you design personalized solutions for each client-- whether they want graduation, layers, or an easy wash-and-wear bob. Grab your mannequin head and practice these time-saving techniques today!