Razor Over Comb Hair Cutting Technique - Men's Undercut Tutorial

Look around! There is a short hair trend in men’s barbering going on. We’re talking about super clean lines and tight fades that are not going away anytime soon. However, what we will start to see more of is texture being introduced into shorter hairstyles.

In this video, Andrew Carruthers, Cultural Ambassador for Sam Villa demonstrates a great way to achieve a short undercut on your male guests (or female guests — think Miley Cyrus), using a razor over comb technique. That’s right! Put down the shear and pick up your razor with a straight edge blade to achieve frothy texture that is loose and lived in versus a blunt edge that you get when using a shear.

Recommended Tools For Success

• Sam Villa 360° Swivel Razor with Straight Edge Blade - To create diffused ends with lived-in texture.
• Sam Villa Wide Cutting Comb - The wide surface area of the comb makes this cutting technique much easier.
• Redken Get Groomed Finishing Cream - Used to prep the hair and add slip when cutting with a razor.

Razor Over Comb Technique

This razor hair cutting technique is very similar to the scissor over comb technique, but instead of using a shear we’ll be using a razor to create diffused ends with more texture.

• Begin with a fresh clean blade on your razor to achieve best results and maximum comfort for your guest during this technique.
• Prep the hair with a grooming cream before you cut the hair to add more slip, making it easier to cut with your razor.
• Take a horizontal part near the round of the head and comb the excess length on top to the opposite side of the head so it’s out of your way. You determine how far up on the head you want to go based on the shape you are creating.
• Using the wide teeth of your large cutting comb, begin at the hairline directly in front of the ear and set your come in the hair.
• With a straight edge blade on your razor, begin your cutting motion by slowly moving your comb upwards while the razor “scrapes” against the comb, removing the hair. The comb should move very slow while the razor moves very fast - this is critical.
• Work in 1” vertical sections for this technique because the razor can only remove so much hair at a time vs. a blunt shear.
• You’ll need to take multiple passes when doing this razor cutting technique to make sure you cut all of the hair. Take your time with this because the end result is totally worth it!
• Continue working around the head in 1” vertical sections until you have completed the undercut.

Tips & Tricks:

• To build more graduation at the top – classic men’s grooming technique – you need to change the angle of the comb. Set the comb in the hair and angle it away from the head as you cut. Gradually move away from the head as you get to the round of the head to create your desired graduation.
• To achieve a faux-hawk look, instead of angling the comb away from the head, angle your comb slightly toward the head shape as you pass the round of the head to keep the comb and razor tighter to the head shape.

As your male guests are looking for a different approach to their classic short haircuts, give this razor over comb technique a try. Your short undercuts will have more texture and as the hair grows out it will be easier for your guest to maintain!