STEP-BY-STEPS
Secure the top section from the sides and back. Create a square shape section below the parietal ridge and top of the ear forward.
Divide the side square section in half horizontally. Cut the top half of the section with clippers or scissors to approximately 1½ inches long. The bottom half of the side section will be disconnected from the top section. Repeat these steps on the other side section.
On both sides creatively open the hair up above the ear.
Be creative while cutting and use descending elevations to create asymmetry in the weight line. Start behind the right ear elevate a horizontal section to the top of the ear. With each additional horizontal section drop the elevation a little. Continue doing this till you reach the back of the left ear.
Drop the top section and create six individual subsections.
Start in the center left top section and cut the hair shorter in the front and longer to the crown. Keep the completed subsection isolated from the other subsections.
Move to the next subsection on the top left. This subsection will be longer in the front and shorter to the crown. Isolate the completed subsection from the rest. Complete each top subsection in this same alternating disconnected approach.
TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK
TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK
Detailed Process
Consultation & Identifying the Vertical Breakdown:
1. Before you begin your cut, identify where your guest’s head rounds by using two combs. Place one comb horizontal off the apex of the head & the other perpendicular off the side of the head to identify where the partial ridge begins sand sends.
2. One shorter length cuts, it’s also important to find the mastoid process of the scull as this can affect the end result of your shape. To find this place a comb horizontally off the back of the head & one comb off the side of the head. This will tell you what hair will move to the left & right, as well as where the transition begins so you can build your shape accordingly.
Sectioning for your Asymmetrical Reverse Pixie Cut:
1. Create a horseshoe section from the front recession to the back of the crown balancing right off the partial ridge.
2. Create another subsection from the back of the ear forward to the front hairline on both sides of the head. Gently sub-section the face frame out so you can leave yourself room for disconnection.
If you're new to adding disconnection into your cuts use the Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips to help isolate any length you want to retain & help to keep that hair out of the way so you don’t accidentally blend it.
Cutting:
1. Begin the cut by addressing the hair below the partial ridge. Use the black Sam Villa Wide Cutting Comb & Sam Villa Artist Series Professional Cordless Clipper (Coming soon!) to create an undercut on one side of the head. Take horizontal subsections, elevate straight out to 90 degrees & cut clipper-over-comb horizontally leaving about 1" of length. Make sure you are not cutting the front hairline as this will later be addressed for soft disconnection.
Use the wide teeth of the comb when clipper cutting so you'll get a more textured result.
2. Clean up the perimeter with the clipper and slightly pull back the ears so you can get a clean edge.
Use your free hand when working with the clipper for stabilization & balance. Placing a finger from the freehand gently on your client's head will increase your control & balance.
3. Now continue to the back of the head & take vertical sections about 2" in width starting behind the ear & elevate up to 180 degrees. Cut bluntly with the Sam Villa 5.5" Classic Series Shear.
4.
Continue with a traveling guide taking vertical sections & elevating the hair up to 180 & cut bluntly.
When working with shorter, more detailed cuts using a shorter length shear under 6” will help you retain control and precision.
5. Once you reach the other side of the head with your traveling guide, you’re going to slowly build in slight asymmetry by pulling the hair out at 90 degrees & cut bluntly.
6.
To remove weight & length in the nape, begin with the Signature Series Long Cutting Comb & Texturizing Razor & skim the ends with a razor-over-comb technique cutting at a slight downward angle.
Layering The Crown:
1. Now release the top horseshoe section & comb the hair all straight forward & subsection the top into vertical sections from the crown to the front hairline about 1" in width. Secure with your Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips.
2. Now begin cutting with the 5.5" Signature Series Swivel Shear & take a subsection within your center vertical section addressing hair in the section you've taken & elevate straight up to 90 degrees & cut with a 45-degree finger angle on a downward slope going shorter towards the front hairline.
Stand in front of the section you're cutting for ideal body positioning for ergonomics & proper alignment when giving precision cuts.
3. Continue addressing each vertical section on the top of the head cutting with a 90-degree elevation but ALTERNATING the finger angle of the adjacent section so the slopes are switching their inclines.
Comb with confidence. Apart from the guest’s experience in the salon is to see what you're creating. So, the neater you are the more you'll elevate the experience.
Styling
1. Use Outshine 1 from Redken to get the most natural movement & shine out of the hair.
If you use too heavy of a product when styling you won’t be able to address any cutting detail work as the hair will be too stiff for you to personalize.
2. Dry the product in with the Sam Villa 9 Row Signature Series Brush & Vision Dryer. Begin wrap drying the hair focusing the movement of the hair on top forward & side to side.
Cutting - Detail work
1. To soften the nape even more use the Sam Villa 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear & cut scissor over the comb to soften the ends even more. Make sure the texturizing blades are facing down when you're using this technique. This will help the hair lay flat on the scalp.
2. To soften the top of the head you channel cut with the 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear make sure the cutting blade is on the scalp while you're lightly skimming through to remove a bit of weight & add a lived-in effect to your cut.
Styling
1. Finish the hair by spraying Redken’s Quick Dry 18 & gently scrunch the hair to enhance the texture.