Often times, a square head shape is the difference between creating a masculine or feminine silhouette in your shorter haircuts. In this video, David Boyd from the Sam Villa ArTeam shares a great technique for removing excess weight & bulk that exists at the round of the head. This texturizing technique is ideal for creating softness and directional texture while maintaining a masculine head shape.
Recommended Tools For Success
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Professional Reversible Blending Shear
- Perfect for your shorter haircuts, scissor over comb work and texturizing techniques.
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Professional Long Cutting Comb
- The contrast of the comb to the hair enables us to stay on point and easily read the hair.
- Ivory comb for darker hair.
- Black comb for lighter hair.
- The contrast of the comb to the hair enables us to stay on point and easily read the hair.
An easy way to go in and remove weight and bulk in your shorter haircuts is by using your reversible blending shear. The steps are simple:
Important: The teeth of your blending shear should be pointing the direction that you want to influence the hair to go. In this example, David has the teeth pointing back to direct the hair to move away from the face.
- Starting at the back corner of the head, comb against the grain of the hair (toward the front of the head) along the round of the head, lifting the hair while you cut with your blending shears in the opposite direction that you are combing.
- Continue to pick up sections of hair with your comb and release weight by cutting with your blending shear.
- You will only be removing about 15% of the hair using this technique and that's all you really need as you are simply trying to remove excess weight from the round of the head.
- Repeat on the opposite side of the head, making sure that the teeth of your blending shear are pointed back and away from the face, until you remove the desired amount of weight and bulk from the haircut.
This technique creates a similar texture as if you were using a razor over comb technique. The end result is soft directional texture with the right amount of weight removal to maintain a square shape in your haircut. Give this a try on your short hair guests; we promise that you'll love the results!
Check out this video for another way to use your blending or thinning shears.