Achieve the desired amount of movement with a special layering technique at the crown using our signature diamond section! Read on to learn the technique with Hair Cutting expert, Sam Villa, Redken 5th Avenue Global Artistic Ambassador and the Co-Founder & Chief Creative Officer of Sam Villa Company!
WHY USE A DIAMOND SECTION?
For this technique, we will create a diamond shape by connecting the points of four triangular sections at the top of the head. We will over-direct one triangle to another allowing us to create movement when cutting various degrees of length and weight.
HOW DO WE ACHIEVE WEIGHT AND LENGTH?
We will be cutting each section using over direction and a diagonal finger angle to achieve the desired weight and length within each section, from the front to the back of the head. So, let’s breakdown the why behind using both elements to understand how we can customize each haircut to suit our guests’ needs!
Why use Over direction? Over direction is a side-to-side movement which creates movement and length in the opposite direction of your section. The degree of weight and length will depend on the cutting guide. We will be cutting to a stationary guide which results in maximum length and movement.
For an example: Folding a piece of paper.
- If you fold a piece of paper in the middle and then cut it at the center, you’ll have two equal halves.
- If you fold the left side of the paper over the center and 2-inches to the right, and then cut at the folded line the left half will be longer than the right.
- This is the same as cutting hair with over-direction. The further you bring one section over to the opposite side, the longer it will be when you bring it back to its natural position.
Why does your finger angle matter? Your finger angle is an in-and-out movement. The angle which we place our fingers determines where the volume is placed within the shape of the haircut.
For an example: Cutting the corners of a piece of paper.
- If you cut off the top right corner you’ll use a diagonal finger angle with your fingertips (or scissor point) pointing in (towards the paper) and bottom of finger directed out. (This is angle is sometimes referred to as diagonal back).
- If you cut off the bottom right corner, you’ll cut using the opposite, diagonal finger angle (sometimes referred to as diagonal forward) by holding your fingertips (or scissor point) pointing out and bottom of fingers facing in (towards the paper).
- This is the same when using a finger angle at the ends of a section to create shape and volume.
Hot tip: Use your mirror to check your finger angle, and that you’re following the same over-direction guide to ensure consistency throughout your haircut!
HOW DO YOU SECTION THE FOUR TRIANGLES?
Set aside four Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips and your Sam Villa Signature Series Long Cutting Comb. Follow this technique to help carve out each section:
- To find the highest point of the head using a comb:
- Lay the comb vertically on the top of the head (Front to back).
- Move the comb gently until it balances on the head on its own. (Remove your hand).
- The point at which the head and comb touch, is the highest point. Place your pointer finger here.
- Use your comb to draw a straight line down to just below the crown.
- Then, follow a straight line from the highest point to the front hairline. (Use the bridge of the nose as a guide).
- This line will be known as your middle part.
- To carve out side parts:
- Starting at the highest point of the head, use your comb to carve a straight line down to the top of the right ear. Isolate the right front from the right back.
- Follow the same technique on the left side.
- To carve out your four triangles:
- Start at the left, front (#1).
- Place your comb at the center part, 2-inches away from the hairline.
- Carve a diagonal back, straight line to the middle of the side part on the left. The triangle will be your section #1 (left, front).
- Place a clip to isolate.
- For the left, back (#4).
- Place your comb at the middle of the left side part you’ve just created.
- Carve a diagonal back, straight line to the middle part just below the crown. This triangle will be your section #4 (left, back).
- Place a clip to isolate.
- Mirror the same technique using diagonal back, straight lines as you move around the head to complete the right back (#3), and right front (#2).
Hot Tip:
- Lower your client so you’re able to look down on the top of their head.
- To ensure each of your four triangular sections are even, hold all four sections straight up at the middle of the head so you’re able to see the diamond you’ve sectioned out!
WHAT TECHNIQUE DO WE USE TO CUT THE LAYERS?
We are going to start by numbering each of the four sections, one through four:
- #1 (left front), #2 (right front), #3 (right back), #4 (left back).
While watching the video, you’ll notice that Sam starts with section #2. This is because it’s recommended to start on your dominant side. If you’re right handed, start with cutting section #2. If you’re left handed, start with cutting section #1. The technique will be the same no matter what side you begin at.
We will use the Sam Villa Signature Series Reversible Blending Shear. Rather than point cutting with a traditional shear this blending shear provides a blunt cut with diffused edges resulting in softer layers.
Starting with your Sam Villa Signature Series Long Cutting Comb in your non-dominant hand:
- Comb Section #2 up and over-direct to section #1. (If you’re a lefty; comb section #1 to #2).
- Stand directly behind Section #1. (If you’re a lefty; stand behind section #2).
- Hold section #2 in between your forefinger and middle finger (horizontally), and direct the comb towards your chest (at a 90 degree angle, parallel to the floor) until you reach your desired length.
- Hold the section with tension between your fingers.
- Tilt your fingers to a diagonal, opposite of the diagonal of the base of your section.
- Example: If the base matches the top right corner of a paper, your fingers should point to match the bottom right corner.
- Bring in your shears mirroring your finger angle, and with the blunt blades at the top of your section.
- Cut to your clients desired length. For this haircut, we will bring the hair just past the round of the head.
- Close the blades down on your guide as you move side to side until all hair at the ends are cut.
- Once all hair is cut, move the shears in about 1-inch in from the ends.
- Close the blades down two-three more times. (At the same finger angle).
- When you bring the section back over to natural fall, you’ll notice that the hair falls short to long, from the front to the back.
- Stand directly behind Section #2 (left front).
- Gather a 1-inch slice from Section #2 (from the top of the head).
- This will be your guideline.
- Combine the guideline into section #1 (right front).
- Place the spine of your comb at the root of Section #1 to direct all hair over to section #2.
- Hold section #1 in between your forefinger and middle finger (horizontally), and direct the comb straight (90 degrees with the floor) until you reach the guideline.
- Tip: Flip over the ends to find the guideline if you can’t feel it.
- Tilt your fingers to match the diagonal of the guideline
- Opposite of the diagonal of the base of your section.
- Bring in your shears mirroring your finger angle, and with the blunt blades at the top of your section.
- Close the blades down on your guide as you move side to side until all hair at the ends are cut.
- Once all hair is cut, move the shears in about 1-inch in from the ends.
- Close the blades down two-three more times. (The same finger angle).
To complete the haircut, we will move to the back sections, #3 (right back) and #4 (left back). To create the degree of shortness at the top, center of the head (crown), we will follow this technique.
- Start by standing behind Section #4 (left back).
- Gather a 1-inch slice from the center at the top (this is your cutting guide) and combine with Section #3 (right back).
- Over-direct to Section #4.
- Hold Section #3 in between your forefinger and middle finger, and direct the comb straight out (90 degree angle with the floor) until you reach the guideline.
- Tilt your fingers so that your fingertips and the point of the diagonal are pointing in the same direction.
- Tip: If you look down at the top of the head; your finger angle and the base of the triangle should replicate the letter V. The purpose of this finger angle is to achieve shorter layers in the crown and gradual length in the back.
- Bring in your shears mirroring the finger angle, and with the blunt blades at the top of your section.
- Close the blades down on your guide as you move side to side.
- Once all hair is cut, move the shears in about 1-inch in from the ends.
- Close the blades down two to three more times. (At the same finger angle).
- Complete the haircut by following the same technique, directing Section #4 (left back) to Section #3 (right back).
Note: Moving the shears in 1-inch from the ends within each section gently softens the edges.
FINAL WORDS
You’ve just completed another one of our Diamond section series’ haircuts- the perfect haircut for movement in layers that move away from the face and promote volume at the crown. Thank you for your passion in learning the tips and tricks to broaden your skills behind the chair!
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