How To Collapse Bulk & Remove Weight in Curly Hair - Sam Villa

How To Collapse Bulk & Remove Weight in Curly Hair

Lately, we're seeing our guests with naturally curly hair embrace their natural curl and texture. They are choosing to keep their length and are excited to show off the natural movement and texture that only curly hair provides!

As stylists, we need to be prepared with the right techniques, tools & products that will enable us to collapse bulk and remove weight where it's needed in curly hair to create a beautiful shape and silhouette.

Tools & Products For Success

  • A Spray Bottle - working with a sense of moisture is recommended.
  • Redken Satinwear 02 - provides slip through curly hair and help it to stay soft and hydrated.
  • Professional Short Cutting Comb - the wide teeth on this comb allows you to comb through without stretching the curls.
  • Professional 6" Swivel Shear - enables you to cut in different body positions keeping your elbox at your side for total comfort and control.

How To Collapse Bulk & Remove Weight in Curly Hair

The technique you're about to learn will allow you to remove unwanted weight and bulk without creating frizz or exploding the hair shaft in curly hair. When cutting curly hair remember this phrase, "the ends need friends." Curly hair likes to hang out in groups and if you texturize curly hair it will cause the curls to frizz and explode because they have nothing to cling to. That is why this 3-2-1 brick laying technique you are about to see is so important when it comes to removing weight and collapsing bulk inside of naturally curly hair.

  • Using the wide teeth of your short cutting comb, begin at the back crown area working with horizontal sections that are about 1" - 1-1/2" thick.
  • Elevate the hair straight up from the head then relax the tension of your section to reveal the curl pattern.
  • At the top of the first "C" curl pattern closest to the head, you will make three cuts using the tip of your shear - one on the left, one in the center and another on the right.
  • Move up to the top of the second "C" and make two cuts - one of the left and the other on the right.
  • Move up again and above the third "C" you will make one cut in the middle.
  • Notice that the cuts you make resemble a 3-2-1 brick laying pattern.
  • Continue, taking horizontal sections that are about 1" - 1-1/2" thick, repeating the 3-2-1 brick laying cutting pattern, until you reach the front of the head.
  • You will not remove weight from your final section at the hairline as it is not necessary and you could create unwanted visible texture in the curly hair.

The total weight removal is only around 10-15% but the bulk you are removing is substantial and will allow the shape of the curls to appear leaner and your silhouette more defined.

Give this 3-2-1 brick laying technique a try the next time you have a guest with naturally curly hair and we promise that you will love the results!

Post pictures of you trying out this technique to Instagram using #samvilla so we can take a look and for a chance to be featured on our page!

Finally, be sure to check out Sam Villa's Curlicious DVD - your guide to cutting naturally curly hair.